Meg Noble Peterson

Author of Madam, Have You Ever Really Been Happy? An Intimate Journey through Africa and Asia

Author: Meg Noble Peterson Page 14 of 30

TRUE LIFE ADVENTURE–HORRIFIC, ENTHRALLING, UNBELIEVABLE….

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On November 30, 2013

In Nepal

This is the antidote to sitting around, waiting for a knee to heal. I’m sorely challenged by prolonged inactivity, as many of you may know, but have found excitement and inspiration in several amazing stories I’ve been carrying around waiting to read. Now’s the time and let me share two of the books with you.  The Unsung Hero; Tom Crean, Antarctic Survivor by Michael Smith. I saw a one-man show at the Irish Repertory Theater in New York City a few years ago about this intrepid Irishman, who was a key figure in both Scott and Shackelton’s polar expeditions in the early 20th century. I was held captive throughout this story of immense strength, dedication, and uncanny endurance.

Now I’m involved in another daring adventure by Ian Baker, The Heart of the World, A Journey To Tibet’s Lost Paradise. It’s an exploration into the heart of Tibetan Buddhism as well as a journey to find what James Hilton wrote in Lost Horizon…the Shangri La hidden deep within the Himalayas. But this is not a fantasy. This is a search for the much-rumored waterfall in the Tsangpo Gorge in Tibet, which has mystified and eluded explorers for hundreds of years. This story dovetails with several other books I’m reading about Tibetan Buddhism as it relates to other philosophies and great religions of the world. It is also especially relevant since the author began his odyssey in the caves of the Yolmo,  where daughter Cary is trekking. I’ve been in touch with her, and she finds this area rugged and beautiful, but won’t be able to go to her highest destination in Guru Rinpoche’s cave because of the extreme weather. I can’t wait to hear more about it!

I walked to the Boudhanath Stupa today and was not run down by a motorcycle. I bargained for fruit, immersed myself in Saturday crowds (this is the only day of the week that school is out), burned incense, and lit butter lamps for loved ones. I’m looking at this time alone as my special retreat, away from the phone, TV, family, work, and computer, except for those times when the power allows me half-an-hour on the internet. I’m paying $10/night for my room and another ten for marvelous vegetarian meals served in a charming garden full of exotic trees and flowers. Wonderful as it is, I would  not have chosen this over a trek, but I shall make the most of it. I’m even catching up on The New Yorker magazine!

THE BEST LAID PLANS….

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On November 27, 2013

In Bhutan, Nepal

In telling of my exciting trip to Bhutan, I decided not to spoil the trip by relating an unfortunate episode at the Punakha Dzong two days before I left. All the challenging obstacles of the week had been surmounted and I was gleefully walking down a dark corridor with a groups of monks familiar with the lay of the land. Suddenly, they moved over to avoid a tall stone threshold, but I was not quick enough and took a dive head first onto the stones, injuring my right knee–that same poor knee that had suffered from the train accident near Udipi, India, two years ago. I did a dramatic flip, but this time my Guardian Angel was napping and I suffered a soft tissue injury, which made it impossible to go trekking. Yes, it could have been much worse…I could have knocked myself out or torn a meniscus or broken my patella. So maybe my Angel was just giving me a severe warning. I’m thankful for small blessings.

Needless to say, we tried to find a hospital, but nothing was available, except for a small clinic in the country, with no orthopedic doctor and a broken X-ray machine. But I did get a freezer pack to help me out until we returned to  Thimpu the next day and went to the emergency room.

Nothing was broken, but I did consult an orthopedic surgeon at the well-known CIWEC clinic in Kathmandu when I returned, and was told to wear a leg brace, do a minimum of walking, and for God’s sake, don’t go trekking. You can imagine my disappointment!

Daughter Cary arrived last Thursday and we mulled over alternatives. The upshot is that she left alone, yesterday (with a guide and porters, of course), for a two-week trek  in the Yolmo region of the Helambu-Gosinkunde area of Langtang, starting at Melamchi and climbing to Dhukpa, the site of Guru Rinpoche’s cave. She can decide as she goes along just how many places to visit and how long to stay in each one. She will have a ball, for this is a very sacred area for Buddhists, with meditation caves used by such revered monks as the legendary Milarepa. She will also do some reconnoitering around the area for a possible return for the two of us next year. We never give up!

In the meantime, I’m enjoying the varied clientele here at the Shechen Guest House in Boudha…a melange of world travelers, trekkers, and NGO workers. It is NOT dull and I’ll keep you posted. Oh, yes, tomorrow is Thanksgiving back home. A happy day to you all. I shall think of you devouring your turkey as I sit and eat my vegetarian meal laced with a warm ginger lemon honey tea here at the Rabsel Garden Cafe.

SUNSHINE, BLESSED SUNSHINE…WHO COULD ASK FOR ANYTHING MORE?

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On November 26, 2013

In Bhutan

Three weeks of gorgeous, sunny weather, warm during the day and crisp at night, is heaven to a recent Whidbey Island transplant, used to fog and mist until midday. So all the exigencies of the past weeks can be forgiven as I view the imposing Himalayan mountains, the white clouds, and the endless sun.

As I’ve said before, I’m not a tour person, but that is the only way to see exotic Bhutan, which I reveled in for seven days. Just flying into the tiny airport was an unexpected thrill, with passengers squealing as the wings of the plane seemed to graze the mountaintops and valleys in their circuitous path toward the runway. I was lucky to sit on the left side of the plane, which afforded clear views of such majestic peaks as Makalu, Everest, and Lhotse…sights that never cease to excite me.

I have vivid memories of six very full days in this peaceful country, visiting major temples and dzongs (fortresses), walking the strenuous trail to the Cheri Gompa, as well as the Tiger’s Nest at 10,000 ft., which hangs onto a 900 ft. precipice, with 750 stairs on the final approach. And it was awesome to stand on the Dochula Pass viewing the northern mountains of the Tibetan Himalaya, called the Jigme Singye Wangchuck, from the 108 chortens built in memory of fallen soldiers during a war  between Bhutan and Tibet. We climbed up through these colorful monuments and got an amazing panoramic view from the Druk Wangyal Temple on top. This was reached by an elegant stone staircase. The last time I climbed as many stone stairs as I did in Bhutan was on the Inca Trail in 2003!

The small Kingdom of Bhutan (650-700,000 population) has  never been invaded or occupied by another country and they take pride in their independence and cultural purity. They need to do a lot of work building their infrastructure, and are getting help from the United Nations and several western countries,  who are interested in helping to preserve the Bhutanese culture.  Things are changing radically, however, as the West introduces new forms of building and more sophisticated business models, and the highly educated young people are seeking to go beyond farming and traditional art into new careers and enterprises. This, of course, is happening throughout Asia.

Like all tourists, I have hundreds of pictures, but no way to put them on my blog until I return home in January. So please be patient with me and I’ll make a slideshow at that time. Words really can’t begin to describe the beauty of the ancient buildings, the farms, or the countryside. So I won’t try. I did enjoy several pujas, which were quite different from the ones I attended in Tibet, Sikkim, Dharamsala, and Ladakh. The chanting seemed more rapid-fire and there were more instruments accompanying the traditional drums and long, deep horns. I enjoyed an oboe-like horn, a recorder, and a type of lyrical wooden flute. People were milling about, doing prostrations with their young children, which was lovely to watch. The antiphonal singing reverberated magically through the stone buildings. I so wished I had brought my tape recorder!

Election day has come and gone in Nepal to the relief of most of the people with whom I’ve talked. The Maoists are on the way out and it looks as if the country is bouncing back from a very dreary, unproductive time, tantamount to civil war. Jimmy Carter and his team were here to monitor the election and felt satisfied with the outcome. Was quite a day! Everything was closed and no cars or motorbikes were allowed. I loved it. I could walk around without endangering my life. I will say that as I strolled around both Bhutan and Kathmandu I found my biggest challenge, aside from broken pavement and potholes, was not to forget that cars and bicycles and motorcycles were coming toward me in the “wrong” direction. The Brits set the driving pattern and vulnerable Westerners have to be on their toes. Even so, I never get used to walking around the narrow streets and alleys, wondering if I should just continue or jump out of the way. It’s like a game of chicken, and most of the time I’m the “chicken!”

The electricity is about to turn go off for the next three hours, so I’ll close. This is a common occurrence in Asia. Will try to get back on this afternoon.

AIRPORT SECURITY–AN EVER-CHANGING ADVENTURE!

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On November 10, 2013

In Adventures en route

Picture two days without sleep; three international flights; miles of exploring terminal byways in search of gates that seem hemispheres apart (the beauty of new, enlarged facilities); and long lines at every immigration checkpoint . Regardless of whether you have a connecting flight and haven’t stepped out of the terminal, you still must go through security at every stop, and herein lies the tale. Fortunately, a passenger doesn’t need to remove his or her shoes as in the U.S., but since my last visit to Heathrow, the security has been stepped up with a meticulous perusal of every inch of luggage. Usually my backpack goes sailing through the Xray, but this time a jolly Brit proceeded to take it apart, piece by piece, even putting the contents of my first aid kit into a plastic bag and blowing air on it to see if fragments of explosives appeared. He was a very likable fellow, shrugged and said, “It’s the rules…but don’t worry, I won’t take your peanut butter sandwich.” Gee, thanks!

It took no time to dismantle a bag that I had packed like a fine-fitting jigsaw puzzle, and I couldn’t imagine how I would put it back together before flight time. “You can do it, Ducky,” said my new friend. Chargers, cameras, New Yorkers, almonds, walnuts, headlamps, cosmetics…how could anyone get so much in one bag? But I was better off than those with lingerie and personal hygiene articles strewn over the counters. Never mind that, in my haste to get on the elevator after hearing a “last call” from my about-to-depart flight, I left my brand new fleece jacket on the counter never to be seen again…by me.

India was even more radical, with female operatives examining every inch of my body. It was the first time I had been asked to remove my money belt and take out credit cards, cash, and travelers checks. I put my sense of humor on hold and stared straight ahead. Even though the Indira Gandhi Airport has had a thorough face lift, and the space between gates so lengthened that you yearn for a pair of roller skates, it is still  not a place where I care to linger.

Of course, there are wonderful pluses to travel that outweigh the inconveniences. You meet the  nicest people! In Heathrow, just after recovering from my security adventure, a flight attendant, surmising that I was hopelessly lost, guided me to the correct train to the flight he happened, also, to be on, and even found two empty seats after take-off, so I could curl up in relative comfort. Then, upon arriving in Nepal and boarding a bus to take us to the terminal, two men jumped up to give me a seat, something I haven’t experienced since Prague, ten years ago. At breakfast in my guest house here in Boudhanath, I’ve met  a group of Bhutanese young people, and a most delightful German scientist/doctor who works with an NGO to help preserve the culture of the families in the Kathmandu Valley.

I feel as if I’ve come home. I walk kora in the busy square of the giant stupa, and return to the Shechen Guest House to renew old acquaintances and enjoy the best food in town. I’ve even attended a large Puja being held at the Shechen Monastery. And tomorrow I fly to Bhutan. See you in a week….

ASIA, HERE I COME!

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On November 5, 2013

In Uncategorized

The day has arrived, and I’m off to Nepal, stopping first in London, then Delhi, then Kathmandu. It will be two days before I come up for air! Packing is difficult not only because of security restrictions (put all your batteries in the checked bag and heaven help you if the nasal spray in your backpack exceeds 2 oz.), but because Heathrow Airport is notorious for eating luggage. So that means an extra carry-on for “can’t live without” items. I’ve been burned once too often. But here’s the way I look at it…all these calculations keep your brain agile without having to pay for a class in geriatric mental gymnastics.

I shall be updating you after I return from Bhutan, my first stop on a two-month trip. I will be staying, while in Kathmandu, at the Shechen Guest House in Boudhanath, a charming Buddhist enclave, where I stayed last year. Upon my return, I will be joined by my eldest daughter, Cary, with whom I’ll trek for two weeks in the Yolmo area of Nepal.

I couldn’t resist one more photo of the glorious view from my balcony on a brilliant Fall day just as the leaves were fading and Mt. Baker poked its head up to say, “See, I’m still here, fog or no fog.”

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One word about Langley before I leave. I was very touched by a traditional ceremony, begun by my daughter in 1996 as a way to honor loved ones past and present. The cemetery is a cherished local spot, which is cared for by volunteers and has become a place of great peace and tranquility over the years. All Soul’s Eve, as it is named, takes place from 5 to 8 PM every November 1st, rain or shine.  It’s a lot of work to set out 200 luminaries, and prepare another 150 bags with votives for those who come to honor their loved ones. But the results are worth it. There is a silent stream of residents, some taking one and others taking several votives and placing them on graves, under trees, and on various stone structures.  This year was especially beautiful and clear and it was with regret that we couldn’t let the candles burn all night. Thank you, Cary, and your volunteers for a memorable experience. (Hope you don’t mind, Mom, but your behind the scenes webmaster daughter is here with a link to the front page of the South Whidbey Record featuring the event, published after you left for Kathmandu…. click HERE to see Meg front and center!)

We line the roads with luminaries made by volunteers
The last vestiges of Fall….
The first few lights appear.
Residents place individual votives on loved one’s graves
As the darkness falls,
the cemetery fills with light.

Last week I kidded about Elizabeth George living on this somewhat misty, rainy island, and who should I meet at All Soul’s Eve but the author, herself, fresh from having her latest Lynley mystery, Just One Evil Act, published. Needless to say I was thrilled! I mentioned taking it on my trip and she said, “It’s 700 pages.” I said, “Wow! Why so long?” She answered, “Because it took that long to tell a good story.” Good answer. I won’t miss this one!

GO WEST, YOUNG MAN, GO WEST, BUT DON’T FORGET YOUR MOTHER!

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On October 27, 2013

In Uncategorized

And that is exactly what my son, Tom, did. I was allowed to go along for the ride, as an alternate driver. He plotted the whole trip, knowing that I am directionally disabled. He said he didn’t want to end up in Saskatchewan. Fortunately, we decided to pack all the prized paintings, oriental rugs, and breakable treasures into the old Toyota Camry, instead of entrusting them to the movers. Considering what happened to my files, Queen Anne chairs, and half my boxes, it was the right decision. Beware of movers…especially those who are friends!

Here are the two weary travelers:

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We spent our first night near my old stomping ground in West Virginia, then moved on to LaGrange, Kentucky, near Louisville. This was the first time we had visited son Rob and his wife, Gwen, who have moved there from L.A. to start a whole new company related to the laser glow golf and glow gear business they created. You might also check out Rob’s recent YouTube video. The next night found us in St. Louis visiting good friends Lynn (of story teller fame) and Robert Rubright (of walking and breakfast book fame), and visiting the Grand Center Arts Academy, a free public charter school in downtown St. Louis, which was spearheaded by their son, Dan Rubright, Director of Arts and Community Partnerships.

We had planned to drop by relatives and friends in Denver and Boulder, Colorado, but the dire predictions of rain and flooding changed our minds, so we headed north, instead, to the wild country of Montana and Wyoming. This gave us the opportunity for a splendid two-day revisit of Yellowstone National Park. The Peterson family en masse had visited here in 1969, pulling a 17 ft. Yellowstone trailer and camping throughout the United States as we went along.

Here are a few of the highlights of our whirlwind exploration of this glorious park. We’re glad we hit it just days before the government shutdown.

This was the first view of the steaming hydrothermals
Cracked ground oozing steam
He wants nothing to do with us!
Made me think of a Japanese painting
Here’s what happens when cold water runs over steaming rock
Our first bison…stopped traffic
Tom heads for the precipice, just to scare me. And he did!
Not something you want to fall into….
Sometimes the park looked on fire….
And sometimes it was the most peaceful place on the planet.
The lower falls….
And how you get there.

Near the Yellowstone Grand Canyon the Yellowstone River plunges 308 ft. over the Lower Falls. You can see geysers spouting downstream. Half-a-mile upstream the Upper Falls formed at a junction of a lava flow and glacial lake sediments.

It’s a long way down….still the Lower Falls.
A colorful canyon.
Coming and….
Going. Forever fascinating.
Turbulence at every turn in the river.
The Upper Falls.
Yellowstone is still recovering from recent fires. The trees grow on their own. The cones require fire to open up and germinate properly.
Many walkways through the springs.
Magnificent desolation.
A peaceful scene as we depart.

Just so you know that I haven’t abandoned my theater addiction completely, I did see Big Fish with the fabulous Norbert Leo Butz  just before I left New Jersey in early September. He was phenomenal, but the show was a bit over the top, exhausting audience members who were more interested in the rather poignant story than the pyrotechnics of Susan Stroman.   Last week, right here in Langley, I saw a terrific production of Blithe Spirit, and every day brings another musical or dramatic event from symphony to comedy to feed the soul. I’m going to love it here!

This trip from Jersey to Washington was a big adventure. I now have a new appreciation of the vastness and beauty of this country and the fun it is to explore its nooks and crannies. Sometimes we lose touch with this in our eagerness to fly to exotic foreign lands. I’m a great believer in getting to know your own land first! We think we’re homogeneous and cut out of the same cloth. We’re not. Just open your eyes and ears and you’ll be surprised at what you discover.

THE MIST IS ROLLING IN…IT MUST BE FALL IN LANGLEY!

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On October 26, 2013

In Uncategorized

I now know why Elizabeth George writes mystery novels…. or are they really mist…ery novels? Maybe that’s why she lives here. We’ve been socked in for a week, and I’m expecting any moment to hear a fog horn from a ferry that’s lost its way. I walk down to the South Whidbey Commons every afternoon to read one of her novels, while waiting for the young student interns to take 20 minutes to make my cappuccino. Bless their hearts. Now that I know this coffee shop/used book store features local writers, I’ll be bringing mine down. I now qualify. I really love this town!

It has taken several months of back and forth, a cross-country road trip, and many agonizing hours of wondering where all my 76 boxes were, as they also went back and forth across the country looking for movers that went out west. Oh my!

Here’s a little slideshow of when it all started, my birthday last June. Lee Compton, a dear friend with whom I traveled in India two years ago, took these and the previous blog shots.

Remember my birthday party?
Here are some photos I just found of me on the zipline.
Son Tom is really enjoying pulling me around.
And I’m glad when it’s over!
This was the beginning of a gala evening of music.

NO SUMMER IS COMPLETE WITHOUT A VISIT TO THE SUBLIME NORTH CASCADES OF WASHINGTON STATE

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On August 5, 2013

In Uncategorized

Beginning our day up to Cascade Pass
Anyone for snow?
Valleys, high mountains, and bugs!
One of many small glacial lakes
A variety of trails makes hiking forever interesting
Wildflowers abound….
Resting before starting the final push

Upon my return to Langley in July, my old climbing buddy, Jon Pollack, and I took off for a two week camping trip in the North Cascades. Were we lucky! Two weeks after returning to the East, while I was at my summer place on Lake Winnepesaukee in New Hampshire, mudslides covered the entrances to every place we’d been. Some of you may have read about it. Believe me, it was no exaggeration!

Just another pretty campsite!
The end of a long day….
Who says it’s easy?
North Cascades Reservoir

Here are a few slides from our final two days. The first was a magnificent climb up Winchester Mountain where we got off the trail and I was sure I was going to die. I had to scramble up an embankment in search of the trail, grasping for heather and whatever rocks I could find. Clawing my way up the steep hill on my belly, Jon kept saying, “Stand up for God’s sake! Stand up.”  How could I when it was so slippery and I could easily fall backwards! Jon assured me I would survive. He was right.

These days were marred by the worst influx of black flies that have plagued the Cascades in recent years. This was told me by a forest ranger whose arms were as red and bitten as mine. A snow-bound trail cut short our final hike at Artists Point. During the night, a torrential rain drenched us. The rain flaps valiantly stood their ground, but lost. We decided to bring water wings next year!

We started at 4,000 ft., heading for 6,000.
No, we did not go swimming!
Beware the red snow.
Where’s the bloody trail?
Summit of Winchester
There’s a bed if you want it.
There’s that snow, again, but we’d learned our lesson.
Cloud formations to die for!
Meanwhile, back at the ranch….
Jesse & Stephanie King, our new climbing buddies….
Artist’s Ridge Trail
Pretty daunting, but we did it a few years ago.
A bit too much snow for hiking.
Artist’s Point
Our favorite campsite, Silver Fir.
Headed up to Hannegan Pass on Mt. Baker
The Kings, again, ready for the bugs!
We finally made it, despite the bugs
We spent a morning roaming around Mt. Baker Visitor Center
Trails galore…..
We couldn’t get enough of Mt. Shuksan

I HAVE A SOLUTION TO THE HEAT IN THE EAST…COME TO THE WEST!

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On July 23, 2013

In Uncategorized

So you thought I had disappeared? No, I just moved, and, as anyone will tell you, that’s right up there with a death in the family.  Some of my belongings are in storage in New Jersey; some of my most precious pieces of Jacobean furniture are at daughter Martha’s; and most of my “stuff” (those unable-to-live-without photos, paintings, journals, and memorabilia collected over sixty years), is in 50 boxes on a moving van wending its way through the heart of Continental America.

In the meantime I am living very simply in a two-bedroom apartment in Langley, WA on magnificent Whidbey Island, eating breakfast every morning on my front deck with this view of Puget Sound and Mt. Baker in the Cascade Mountains. It’s cool, it’s sunny, and it’s peaceful beyond description. Can a longtime New York City theater addict find happiness living an un-frantic lifestyle surrounded by the mountains and fir trees of the great Northwest? Tune in over the next few months.

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Puget Sound

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Mt. Baker in the Northern Cascade Mountains

How did this happen? When I last left you I had just sold my house while climbing in the Langtang area of the Nepalese Himalayas, and taken up temporary quarters at Martha’s in Maplewood, NJ.  My search for a new place of residence was getting nowhere, so I decided to head west. First, I visited my old friend, Bonnie Phipps, a top Autoharp Maven and the recent winner of the Mt. Laurel autoharp contest, in Boulder, Colorado. We took a glorious walk in the Rocky Mountain National Park….

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How great it is to be alive!

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Leaving the hills of Colorado on May 8, I flew to Seattle and was greeted by a stunning view of Mt. Rainier from the plane. I never tire of  that snow-covered volcano!

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My destination, as in every summer for twenty years, was Whidbey Island for a visit with my eldest daughter, Cary. At the same time I planned to celebrate yet another astronomical birthday on June 3rd with a gathering of all my children and numerous island friends.

My party was a gala celebration on the spacious center lawn at Talking Circle in Langley. As usual, it was potluck, which assures amazing creations, and there were a dozen young musicians (mostly interning or working on farms on the island) playing everything from the old Pete Seeger folks songs to modern rock and blues. I have a lot of videos of square dancing and swinging from the zip line, but few photos. Shame on me. I even had a blast riding the zipline a la these girls.

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Son Tom steam-cleaned the Commons House in preparation…

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The tables were prepared by Mully and friends…

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That’s a very high number, but it sure tasted good!

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Hey, a cake? What a surprise? I prefer looking at the letters from this direction!

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Everyone threw something into the fire…preferably wood. What a great evening!

Cary suggested that I try island living for a year and I lucked into a terrific apartment that overlooks the Sound, with a three-minute walk down the hill to the heart of Langley. And for one-third the price of a comparable living space in the NY Metropolitan area. There are a couple of outstanding espresso/designer coffee shops close by, along with numerous restaurants, galleries, and a thrift store to die for. South Whidbey is teeming with activity, albeit not crowded or noisy, and has a long list of cultural events, including a variety of music and drama venues. It’s close to Hedgebrook, a writer’s colony, and a ferry ride across the water from Seattle. I’ll admit the gas is about $4.00 a gallon, but everything you want is only about 15 minutes away. A movie is $5.00 if you’re super old, and the popcorn to go with it is only $1.00.

I was able to buy some stunning furniture at the Habitat for Humanity Thrift Store in Freeland, so jettisoned most of my old possessions in an effort to “let go” of the past. I haven’t lived in an apartment for sixty years, but it is definitely low-maintenance. I don’t have to push a lawnmower or worry about the basement flooding anymore.  What’s not to like?

Before I left Maplewood in early July, I was treated by theater buddies, Paul Sharar and Phyllis Bitow, respectively, to my last two shows of the season; the excellent Lucky Guy, starring Tom Hanks, and the uproarious Nance, with Nathan Lane. That should hold me until early September, when I make my final pass in NJ and head with my son, Tom, cross-country, with whatever we can stuff into the old Toyota. It will be nice to have my car, again, though I’m getting a bit attached to driving Cary’s 1987 Mazda pick up. How better to strengthen your arm muscles than driving a truck with no power steering?

Next week I head for the Northern Cascades and Mt. Baker with my climbing buddy from Annapurna, Jon Pollack. We’ll camp and hike for ten days before I return to the East for three weeks at the Noble family cottage on Lake Winnipesaukee. When I return to Whidbey I will face an apartment crammed to the gills with boxes. It will keep me out of trouble all winter!

Keep reading. There will be plenty of pictures coming

THANKSGIVING DAY IN THE HIMALAYAS. AM I BEHIND OR WOT?

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On April 15, 2013

In Nepal

Let this be a lesson to all you writers and photographers. Digital cameras are heavenly and they are horrible. You just keep clicking until you have 2,000 pictures from a four-week trek and now have to decide which ones to post. Erasing them seems an equally draconian option. If you were born indecisive (yes, that is possible), the problem becomes almost insurmountable. Stay with me, folks. I’m leaping back into Langtang and hope to finish the trek before spring. Considering the capriciousness of the weather, I may just succeed!

November 22nd arrived bright, sunny, and chilly. We knew we weren’t going to get near a turkey, so settled for exquisite pancakes for breakfast. That’s about as good as it would get, unless we plucked cabbages from one of the many high-altitude farms we passed.

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Leaving our guest house early,

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we said goodbye to our hostess, working next to her homemade greenhouse, and our friendly, ubiquitous bird.

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Anyone for cabbages? High altitude gardens abound as do water-powered prayer wheels, but beware of the yak curd (above at wayside hut) if you have a dicey stomach….

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as we go in and out of rocky fields and ever-steeper terrain. Here are more scenes along the way.

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No matter how rocky the terrain, we can always find a rest stop decked with flowers. Ask Cary and Christy…

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and a waterfall over a rushing stream. The beauty overwhelms….

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And you guessed it! Christine and Erwin again!

ImageIt’s all yours, Christy. One of the challenges of the Himalaya….

ImageUp and down dale….or is it down and up?

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ImageThis was NOT fun!

ImageCarrying logs home

ImageWaiting for permission to enter Langtang Park

ImageThe Hotel Tibetan Guest House, our home for the night….

ImagePema and Buddhi are waiting for us,

ImageAs is our hostess.ImageAnd, lest you think we had forgotten…here is our vegetarian Thanksgiving dinner…including pie for dessert

ImageImageAnd another glorious sunset

ImageNot a bad Thanksgiviing, eh? And there’s more to come. Stay tuned….

Just one final note on the cultural agenda, which I know you, my readers, are eager to hear, but not as eager as I am to share: There have been two Plainfield Symphony concerts, the first featuring Prokofiev and the final composed of excerpts from Verdi’s operas. If any of you saw the movie, Quartet, you know how great that can be. I highly recommend it.

Speaking of opera, I enjoyed over four hours of Handel in the Metropolitan Opera’s great production of Giulio Cesare starring Natalie Dessay. You can’t get any better, even though I am not wild over countertenors. Handel sure knows how to write music for them. As for theater, I highly recommend the new musical Hands on a Hardbody with one of my favorites, Hunter Foster; Hit The Wall about the 1969 gay uprising at the Stonewall Bar (the theater was right across the street); and The Testament of Mary, superbly acted by Fiona Shaw. Rather disappointing was the revival of Clifford Odet’s The Big Knife, with Bobby Cannavale. I also was thrilled to spend an evening with the Wyman-Kelly family in West Hartford and go to a concert at the Bushnell Theater put on by 8th graders. It was  outstanding! I remember the days when to go to a concert of elementary children necessitated earplugs. Not so this one. A band, orchestra and chorus of high quality. Leah Kelly was the lead trumpet.

My final musical adventure took place in Harlem last week, where my musician friend from England, Mike Fenton was putting the finishing touches on an article for an English Record  Collecting magazine about Maxine Brown, one of the original soul divas of the 1960’s. Look her up online. She sang with many of the greats and had her own singles as well. She’s beautiful, talented, and still going strong with a new group. Next week she’ll be traveling with Ben E. King and others to Germany for the Baltic Soul Weekend.

P1010725

The inimitable Mike Fenton and Maxine Brown

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