After a marvelous breakfast we started out in dampness and fog. Though the hike was only about 8 miles, it took us over 5 hours because of the treacherous footing. The rocks were wet and slippery, it rained intermittently, and we had to make our way up a very steep trail through bushes and trees, before facing more brooks and waterfalls. Water was everywhere! The overhanging rocks were black and looked like layers of pancakes. I tried without success to photograph the high rock walls beside the narrow trail, and the precipitous fall to the valley below. We followed the water or looked down on it from above. The climbing was wondrously varied and I loved it! Now and then we’d stop near a cave or under an overhang to get out of the drizzle. By then we had donned our rain pants and covered our packs. But mostly we kept up a steady pace over endless flat rocks. You could always hear the waterfall, but not see it until you’d come down a ledge or two and look over…and there it was, thundering down the chasm.

At Osterbo we settled into our hut and enjoyed a sumptuous meal of lamb and veggies served by a delightful Romanian girl—black skirt, crisp white blouse, broad smile.


(click here for pictures)